It’s been a rough year in Churchill - the closing of the port and a reduced freight rail service are having a crippling effect on the town. With the arrival of summer this remote town in the north of Canada suddenly comes alive and for a brief few months, local residents can enjoy a brief respite from encroaching bears.
In summer, it’s the belugas that are king. The Churchill river is teeming with them – four thousand in the river on any given day and 50,000 in the bay swimming with the bears. And that’s what the tourists are up here to see.
But the threat to the people of Churchill and the tourists who visit the town is still very real. Conservation officers, scientists, wildlife experts and guides work hard to ensure that the bears continue to thrive alongside the fascinating cast of characters that inhabit this frontier town.
One such character is Erin Greene. Since her bear attack three years ago, Erin has not only stayed in Churchill, she’s set down roots. She’s partnered with Remi Allen, whose family owns Sea North Tours, a successful beluga whale tour company. She’s developed a first for Churchill – stand up paddle boarding tours.
Remi Allen may be under 30, but he is quickly becoming one of Churchill’s major tourist operators. He’s recently built a safety boat dedicated to keeping tourists safe should something go awry on these unpredictable waters.
Several miles from town, Robert “Rocky” Rockwell, a scientist from the American Museum of Natural History, has set up camp to study polar bear eating habits during the summer months. He uncovers evidence that indicates the bears are adapting to climate change by eating snow geese and goose eggs, something previously thought to be preposterous.
As the season draws to a close, a dog is found dead from exposure outside the trading post - a grim signal to the residents that the laid back days of summer are over.
In spite of all the challenges Churchill is facing, the spirit within this frontier town is indestructible. Like the bears and the whales, the people and this town always find a way to survive, adapt, and thrive.